Cycling From Tai Wai to Sam Mun Tsai: Coming Home to Hong Kong
I hadn't been back to Hong Kong in a while. This time, I knew I wanted to go on a bike ride. Not just because I learned to ride there as a kid, but because I'd started taking cycling seriously in Seattle - and I wanted to see what it felt like to ride in the city that taught me how, to see how my two worlds fit together.
There’s no better way to experience it than this popular cycling route that takes you through Hong Kong’s iconic cityscapes and its more rural side.
Tai Mei Tuk: Where I Learned to Ride
It felt like a coincidence when my dad suggested that we head over to Tai Mei Tuk (大美督) for lunch on the first day of Lunar New Year, also known as 大年初一 in Chinese. I was just thinking about this spot and you got a little sneak peak when I wrote about the 5 Best Beginner Cycling Routes You Can Do Around Seattle Year-Round. This is the spot where I fell in love with riding bikes.
The Tai Mei Tuk Water Sports Centre near Plover Clove Reservoir
I hadn’t been back in years. Not since I was a kid, riding a rental bike with my family on Sundays. The same bike rental shops filled the road. The same road leading up to the Plover Cove Reservoir. And that same hill that used to feel impossibly steep and intimidated the hell out of me. The only thing that changed was the upgraded facilities of the BBQ area nearby. Everything else stayed the same.
For those who don’t know, I spent 18 years in Hong Kong before moving to Seattle. The rides we did on Sundays were how I learned to ride a bike - how to balance, climb, and to trust myself on a descent. But it wasn’t without the help of my parents. They would stand in front of my bike on the way down of that steep road and acted as human shields to make sure my sister and I didn’t full-send it down the path. Eventually, we both got it and we didn’t need the training wheels or our parents standing in front of us. We became pros.
Somewhere between Hong Kong and Seattle, between childhood and adulthood, I forgot that bikes were fun. But sitting there at lunch in Tai Mei Tuk, watching families rent bikes from the same shops we used to, I started wondering what it would be like to ride here again - not as a kid being taught, but as someone who'd spent months grinding up Seattle hills. To see if those two versions of myself could exist in the same place.
A few days later, I got on a bike in Hong Kong for the first time in over a decade.
Rental bikes lined up both sides of the cycling path in Tai Mei Tuk
The Ride: Tai Wai to Sam Mun Tsai
I was fairly busy celebrating Lunar New Year with my family. I didn’t have time to do this ride until Monday, the day before flying back to Seattle. However, I’d been researching this route for days, mapping it out on RideWithGPS so I wouldn’t get lost. After that lunch at Tai Mei Tuk, I knew I had to do this ride before leaving.
After all, it’s probably been over two decades since I’ve ridden a bike in Hong Kong.
The great thing about living in Hong Kong is the convenience of public transportation. I had lunch with my dad in Central in the morning and hopped on the East Rail Line (MTR) all the way to Tai Wai. I took Exit 4 and walked maybe 3 blocks and there it was, the bike rental shop I was looking for.
I broke down the costs of renting a bike for a day and other tips to make sure your ride goes smoothly because these shops do get chaotic, and I don’t want you to feel intimidated.
Renting a Bike in Tai Wai
Bikes everywhere!
I rented from a shop called Asia Bicycle Company (亞運單車) located near the Tai Wai MTR Station Exit A. They have locations in Tai Wai, Tai Po, and Tai Mei Tuk.
Total cost (bike + helmet) = $100 HKD ($12.78 USD)
You can also rent a basket if you have bags or backpacks you don’t want to carry. I got the basket for free I’m pretty sure. The rental process can be quite hectic as the employees are probably helping multiple people at once. I would just be more proactive and really lock down on a bike you like and ask for adjustments if needed.
Before you start riding:
Rent a helmet! Safety first - nobody seems to wear helmets in Hong Kong though
Test the brakes, check tires for air, and make sure there’s no damage to the chains.
They will ask for a Hong Kong ID card number if you’re a local. I’m not sure what they would ask for if you are clearly a tourist (let me know if you find out?)
Where I rented:
Asia Bicycle Company
8 Chik Sau Ln, Tai Wai, Hong Kong
The Route
The route I did was about 26 miles (~41 km) and that includes a small detour to the Tai Po Waterfront Park. I checked it out and had to turn around early because I was short on time but there is a way to directly bike from here to Sam Mun Tsai, although you would be leaving the bike lanes for a bit before reconnecting with it. The ride was easy, mainly because I’ve been doing hillier rides in Seattle. The trail is mostly flat with a maximum grade of 4.1%.
The route follows Shing Mun River, opens up to Tolo Harbor, passes through Hong Kong Science Park, continues along the Pak Shek Kok Promenade and into Tai Po, and then you reach your final destination of Sam Mun Tsai, a fishing village.
Check out my route on RideWithGPS, I’ve included some photos along the route too!
Hot Take:
I highly recommend starting the ride in Tai Wai. Most bike rental shops have various locations along the route including Sha Tin, Tai Po, and even Tai Mei Tuk. If you don’t feel like riding back to where you started, there are options to end the ride early and return to a different location. I would just let the shop know in advance so they don’t expect you to return to the location you rented from.
Scenic Spots Along the Route
There is plenty to see and rest along the route. The route shifts from cityscapes to rural Hong Kong but even if you head into the more rural parts, there are plenty of rest spots to fill up your water bottles and restrooms as well.
Shing Mun River & Tolo Harbor
The route leaves Tai Wai and you start paddling alongside the Shing Mun River, a wide canal lined with the kind of massive housing estates that define Hong Kong's skyline. It was Lunar New Year, so the path was decorated with colorful banners strung across the railings. The river section feels urban and busy. Around 5 km (~3 miles) in, everything opens up. The river meets Tolo Habor and suddenly you’re riding alongside open water with mountains rising in the distance.
It’s that quintessential Hong Kong moment, the visual shift from dense urban development to natural beauty happening in the span of a few pedal strokes. When I was paddling pack, I caught some folks that were training with the Hong Kong China Canoe Union.
Hong Kong Science Park
About halfway through the route, you pass through the Hong Kong Science Park area. It consists of futuristic glass buildings and modern architecture set against the backdrop of traditional high-rise housing estates. There’s a golden egg-shaped auditorium (the Charles K. Kao Auditorium) that’s hard to miss. This is a good spot to take a break - grab a coffee or some food from the cafes and restaurants and cross the cylcing path to the Pak Shek Kok Promenade to relax. It offers spectacular views of Tolo Harbor and Ma On Shan Peak.
Tolo Harbour Views
Once you leave the cityscapes behind, the entire middle section hugs Tolo Harbor’s coastline, and the views are stunning. The water is a brilliant turquoise green color. The Pat Sin Leng mountain range, aptly named because it’s a group of 8 peaks, becomes visible across the water as you approach Tai Po. What I loved about this section is how the urban density gradually fades and gives rise to green hills and more rural landscapes.
Tai Po Waterfront Park
I didn't go all the way into the park but took a quick detour to check it out. It's Hong Kong's largest park managed by the Leisure and Cultural Services Department - expansive lawns, waterfront views, and the iconic Spiral Lookout Tower. Looked like a perfect spot to take a longer break before continuing the ride, especially for families or anyone who wants to stretch their legs off the bike.
Sam Mun Tsai
The fishing village at the end - speedboats and traditional vessels bobbing in the harbour, backed by forested hills. Sam Mun Tsai New Village was established in the 1960s when the original village was relocated to make way for Plover Cove Reservoir. There's not a ton to do here - it's mostly a row of two-story houses facing the water, a few small shops, and the pier - but that's kind of the point. It's a rest stop, a turnaround point, a place to catch your breath and refill your water bottle (there's a rest area with water fountains).
I stopped at the rest area (where you can refill water bottles), caught my breath, and wished I had more time to explore. I always tell myself to slow down, but I still feel rushed. This time it was getting home to my mom before my flight the next day.
The Takeaways
The cycle pathways with decent signage along the way.
What Surprised Me
I really enjoyed the protected cycle paths the entire way. I suppose they call them cycle paths instead of bike lanes in Hong Kong. They were wide, well-maintained and completely separated from traffic. It was so different from having to navigate some of Seattle’s car-centric streets. I felt safe the whole time, even when the path got busy with families.
What makes this route super cool is it shifts from cityscape to rural Hong Kong. The route starts alongside buildings and high urban density, then gradually opens up to hills rising in the distance, ocean views, and the Pat Sin Leng mountain range visible across the water. You can even see the Tsz Shan Monestary just by riding across Tolo Harbor - it’s quite spectacular because their Guan Yin statue is massive.
You can actually ride to the Monestary but you would have to get tickets in advance in order to visit. More information can be found here.
My sister and I along the Pak Shek Kok Promenade near Science Park
An Unexpected Reunion
My sister works along the ridde, and I was able to catch her briefly as I rode on the Pak Shek Kok Promenade. It was really nice - I wished I had more time to grab coffee with her at one of the cafes nearby, but I needed to get home to spend time with my mom before flying out the next day.
The Pak Shek Kok Promenade also has one of the cleanest and prettiest bathrooms. Since it’s along the cycle path, each stall has different wall decor showing the different types of bikes. There is also a water filling station here.
How the Ride Felt
Honestly? I was worried. It was Lunar New Year. I'd been eating a lot and hadn't followed my regular cycling routine, couldn't get to the gym to climb or work out. But all those Seattle hills paid off. Despite being on a flat bar bike again (I didn't realize how used to drop bars I'd become), the ride felt manageable. Strong, even.
The flat terrain helped, but I think it was more than that. Months of grinding up Roosevelt, of burning legs and trash cardio slowly getting less trash - it all meant I could come back to Hong Kong and ride with confidence I didn't have as a kid or even as an adult.
Riding back from Sam Mun Tsai towards the Tai Po Industrial Area
Two Cities, Two Wheels: Why I Recommend this Route
I know how lucky I am.
Living in Washington State means the North Cascades, the Olympic Peninsula, endless wilderness that Hong Kong can't replicate. I've built an entire outdoor life here around that landscape.
This ride reminded me that adventure doesn't always mean wilderness. Sometimes it's protected bike paths along a harbor, mountains in the distance, and realizing you can come home and still find new ways to explore.
But this ride from Tai Wai to Sam Mun Tsai opened my eyes to something I'd been missing: Hong Kong has its own kind of beauty, and I'd never experienced it this way before.
As a kid, those Sunday bike rides were just family outings. Coming back as an adult, choosing this route and riding it solo - it hit differently. I got to do the thing I love in Seattle (cycling, exploring, moving through landscapes) in the place where I grew up. That convergence felt significant.
The route itself is accessible and genuinely scenic. Protected paths, flat terrain, beginner-friendly - perfect for families or anyone who wants a few hours outside the city. The convenience is unmatched: MTR to bike rental to coastal views, all within a morning. No car, no complicated logistics.
But more than that, it gave me a new perspective on what life could look like if I moved back. I've always thought of Hong Kong as the city I left to find outdoor adventure elsewhere. This ride reminded me that adventure doesn't always mean wilderness. Sometimes it's protected bike paths along a harbor, mountains in the distance, and realizing you can come home and still find new ways to explore.
If you're visiting Hong Kong, or if you grew up here and moved away like I did, do this ride. You might surprise yourself.
Resources
Asia Cycling Company: Where I rented my bike
Tsz Shan Monastery: for those who want to visit the monastery
Cycling from Shing Mun to Tai Mei Tuk: similar to the route I did, instead this one ends in Tai Mei Tuk instead of Sam Mun Tsai